Відео

Hello, thanks for your comment! I didn't use ferrules because I wanted to follow Neutrik's instructions when making a tutorial video. Their instructions do not mention the use of ferrules so I didn't use them. Personally, I have experienced more issues when using ferrules than without. With a ferrule, there is only one small point of contact where the screw pinches the ferrule, and if the screw loosens at all that contact point is compromised. When using bare wire (I always use stranded wire) the wire conforms to the entire area of the termination and makes much better contact (in my experience). Ferrules usually look nicer but almost every time I have experienced a loose connection in a connector like this, someone had used a ferrule and it had come loose after use - so I have the opposite opinion that ferrules make these connections less reliable. After a bit of research it seems there is no standard for crimping ferrules and when using a ferrule from one brand and a crimper from another there is no guarantee the crimp will hold. I am guessing a lot of the failed ferrule connections I have seen were made with mismatched parts (something any of us could do without knowing it was a bad practice!) This video from Wiha was a god confirmation that without proper spec matching ferrule crimps often come apart: ua-cam.com/video/Ia13o1I6DkM/v-deo.html If I'm in the position of needing a truly failure-proof connector I will use solder. This is not to say there is anything wrong with the way you make cables! I have simply had worse luck with ferrules (made by others) so skip that step all together, especially since Neutrik's instructions are for bare cable.

@@pfjanky You make a good point that not all ferrule crimpers are the same and should be paired with the corresponding ferrules. However, with the correct crimper like Wiha (not one of those basic crimpers) the ferrules have segments and will also be soft enough to be flexible when the screw pinches them. Soldering is definitely an option but under extreme conditions (dry desert and dust/wind) I saw that the wires aren't as flexible with the solder and strands start to break past the soldering portion. If the screws start coming loose that's a much bigger problem and should be checked. But in my experience bare wire begins to fray and ferrules that are properly crimped and installed actually make better contact and much harder to break off under strain.

@@giovannigalvez8598 I would bet that the shop I used to have these issues with used generic crimpers and ferrules for an entire batch of cables and that soured my experience for life haha! Plus many of the failures I have experienced were with Neutrik NL Loudspeaker connectors because there are a lot of different types (and qualities) of cable used for speakers and it was likely NOT a match for the ferrules they were using. If I were working on this project in a shop with a group of people I trusted, a large spool of one trusted brand of cable, the correct tools and a reasonable budget I would absolutely use ferrules but since I almost am never in that situation (I work for a non-profit so accounting asking "aren't there generic ferrules?" comes into play, as well as 10+ years of purchasing whichever cable was affordable at the time) I can't guarantee the performance of the ferrules and therefore omit them from my projects.

So...does the like mean that Point Source mics DO have a lot of self-noise, unlike the Shure MX135 and Microphone Madness?

Thanks for leaving the comment - I'm glad this info is helping people in the same position I was. As I mentioned in a previous comment things may have changed with the Point Source mic since I reviewed it but I haven't been able to stomach spending more money on them so I don't know what current product lines are like.

@@pfjanky well, I just bought a PS CO-3 and it'll arrive tomorrow, so I will let you know! I was truly shocked to hear how noisy the Drury Lane mics where when I first plugged one in...

I'm very glad this info helped out! I *should* add that several years have passed since I made this review so there's a chance the mics have improved. I haven't been able to talk myself into sending any more money to Point Source since this experience so I have no hands-on time with them since 2018. I'm still a full-time audio supervisor at a performing arts center so perhaps the fact that I haven't seen them in that long is another indicator(?) They do a great job marketing all of the shows using their equipment so I know the mics are out there I just don't know what others are finding with use.

When I sat down to make these videos I hoped that they would help even one person out there and I appreciate so much that you took the time to leave a comment. Thank you - and I'm glad it helped!

Correct, but the Powercons are rated at 20A, which is more than most US wall outlets, so no issues.

You're the best kind of person!

Hello! As far as I know the connectors are mainly used in the entertainment industry. Neutrik PowerCON originally came out as a VERY similar plug type as their SpeakON connector for loudspeakers. The original version wasn't rated for as high of a load as the TRUE1 series, and their big "flaw" was that they mated all pins simultaneously(ish) which meant that is was possible for ground to be connected after "hot" which meant you couldn't plug/unplug while the line was hot (everyone did anyway). The TRUE1 iteration added a higher power capability and more importantly assured the ground pin mated first so they could be used while live. The TRUE1 TOP added IP-something moisture/environmental resistance. This made them even more appealing to the entertainment industry which often produces shows outdoors. Plus, they lock in place easy-peasy! This also could be wrong hahaha... it's just my understanding of and experience with the connector! I hope it helped though; this is a very common connector on things like professional intelligent lighting, special FX, audio equipment, etc.

I was filming this in the middle of a very busy technical rehearsal for the company I was working for at the time. I apologize that my expressions weren't to your liking! I'll try to speak differently for you in the future. But, unfortunately, no I wasn't drinking, nor am I an alcoholic. Thank you for taking the time to comment!

Came here to say that. Thank you for mentioning.

On Neutrik's spec sheet they specify the following: Flat tabs for FASTON® 6.35 mm x 0.8 mm (1/4” x 0.03”) and the Faston crimps are affordable and fit perfectly with these. If you don't have any on hand (like me) or you prefer using an insulated connector you will need to experiment a bit to find one that works. I don't remember the exact size I used in this video (sorry!) but it looks like it was just a normal yellow crimp connector.

Yeah I always look for more AvE-like content so I figured I'd make some! I get so many good laughs from that channel.

I used a cheap handheld pop rivet gun/tool. I think it was a Stanley brand; whatever is on the shelf at your local hardware store. Black pop rivets add style points if your store carries them!

I'm very glad I could help.

You guessed right! I love his sense of humor.

Thanks. Sorry for any confusion.

Sure could! These are really just regular Furman power strips with a swapped cable. The only thing I've changed is how I plug it it.

pfjanky how much?

@@BagusWibisono I don't sell these, I made this video as a how-to in case you wanted to make your own. Sorry!

pfjanky Work oh no dude, I just want to know for the market price.. This unit is great for guitar amp?

@@BagusWibisono Gotcha - if you read the other comments there have been some people questioning the quality of the surge protection circuitry in these units; they're really not much different than cheap power strips. I use them because the metal case allows me to modify them to PowerCON. To be honest, if you're looking for power conditioning for your amps I would look into more expensive conditioners from Furman or other brands. The power strip in the video is currently $35 on amazon, and the TRUE1 connectors vary in price from $10-$30. If you're asking whether you can convert your amp to these connectors, I'm not sure. I'm not too much of an expert on those amps. I hope this helps! Sorry if I still didn't understand your question!

I haven't done anything on ferrules so I don't think that was me, but I hope it worked out for you! I started making these True1 cables for the power strips I modified in my other video, and the only reason I chose them for that application was the great male/female combo package Neutrik sells for that product line.

This makes me so happy, thank you!

You know, after making so many cables it's embarrassing that I would learn this trick from the comments section of my own UA-cam video hahaha! Thank you.

I don't see why not! I would confirm that it won't harm the jacket of the cable you're using, but especially with water-based lubes it should be totally smooth sailing.

I used the search "29mm sheet metal punch" on eBay. I don't fully remember but it might have come from a UK seller.

halo.. this can use for guitar amp like (kemper stage OR line6 helix floor board) ???

I haven't experienced this issue personally. Sometimes, especially with higher-power tools there is enough of an inrush current to trip breakers; especially on long extension cords.

I don't have one in front of me to find out for sure, but yeah, the mounting methods for the circuitry certainly don't look to have an excess of care put into them. BUT the nice metal enclosure is perfect for this retrofit and I haven't found a better form factor thus far.

Yeah... that's actually a great side effect of posting videos! Learning new things, especially those simple tricks, is always nice.

@@pfjanky The directions say push and turn simultaneously so the part slides down the cable easily. You didn't turn yours as you slid it, so that's why you needed the lubricant. Lol

@@illestofdemall13 if you look at the assembly instructions from Neutrik it says in bold, red lettering "Note: “Apply cable pulling lubricant to cable jacket.” and adds the additional information "Recommendation: Wire Pulling Lubricant - LUB-I/0.95 from 3M TM" which is why I did what I did. Assembly instructions are available here: www.neutrik.us/en-us/product/nac3fx-w

@@pfjanky it also says to twist and push but you didn't.

@@illestofdemall13 you're completely right. I did mention to be careful when pushing it back and for this connector didn't have to rotate because I still had leftover cable lubricant on the jacket, sorry for not twisting. I look forward to watching your instructional videos to learn how to do this the right way!

Good to know!! Thank you!

Hello Stan, The drawing is available at the bottom of Neutrik's website here: www.neutrik.com/en/product/nac3px The file I used is the "DRAWING NAC3PX" PDF file but as I say in the video you MUST make sure your printer doesn't scale the image. I had to print mine out at a different % scale to get dimensional accuracy. Hope that helps!

Thanks for your comment. Yeah, not having a way to repair the cables is certainly a huge bummer, but the flip side I constantly hear from peers is the failure rate of swappable cables (like the countryman) is just as inconvenient. Some people won't use the Countryman JUST because of the joint where the cable connects to the boom; they've had that fail enough times that they would much rather take their chances with a one-piece cable like the DPA. It's really a case of choosing your evils and the type of performer you most often work with. I have personally had the best luck with DPA products, but that certainly comes at a $$ cost.

@@pfjanky Sennheseiser HSP are removable and I've never had an issue with those. New DPAs are removable cables (haven't tried them yet).

Not sure where you're shopping. I got mine from eBay for $26 USD. Prices for the Weicon No. 5 range from $23 to $60 USD on eBay as of 12/8/18. If you do a quick search on Amazon for "automatic wire stripper" you can find other brands for as little as $14 USD, and I'm sure the same applies for eBay. I don't want to post links because listings come and go, but if you can't find these products I'm happy to email you links if you send an email address. I'm not an affiliate for any product, just trying to help. Having said that, it IS nice, thanks. -Dog

Hi Andrew, My go-to bulk cable is Coleman 23388 12/3 cable. It gets you the 12 AWG rating to comply with the connectors but has a small (and durable) enough outer jacket to fit the connectors reasonably. I purchase from Full Compass.

@@pfjanky Thanks for the reply. Great video. You mentioned using 14 ga in the video, so just making sure the stuff you recommended will fit.

@@andrewfuhrman7699 thanks, I appreciate it. The cable I was using in the video was the stuff I cut off of the power strips in my Power Strip Conversion to PowerCon True1 video, so I was comfortable with the smaller AWG for that application. The spec sheet for the connectors actually call for 12/3 AWG to handle their full rated power capacity. The Coleman cable I buy in bulk suits that 12/3 spec and fits in the connector snugly. The OD of that Coleman cable is 10.92mm, which is a "Goldilocks" size for the Neutrik spec of 6-12mm OD.

I totally skipped that, didn't I?!? I do one of two things: Drill directly through the paper template (after taping or really believing in myself as a template-holder) OR if I am reusing the template from a previous box, I make a silver Sharpie (any marker would work) mark through the existing drill hole in the paper. It's not scientific, but it has gotten me by on these boxes.

I should re-stress the importance of making sure your printer has not scaled the template, though. That was a dumb mistake on my first attempt!

Thanks for that info! I've never tried shopping outside of the US store on Amazon. I've always read that soldering the VERY TIPS of cables into screw terminals is permissible to keep them from fraying, but there shouldn't be solder on the area that will be clamped down. As the solder slowly compresses/deforms, the cable will just fall out of the screw terminal. As always, results vary across uses, but for anyone reading these comments I'd emphasize to not solder anything more than the very tip and not the whole length of cable being clamped into the connector terminals. WD40 is a great hack to avoid the cable lube! I honestly didn't even think of that. Always be sure to make sure the jacketing on your power cables will safely interact with WD40 or any other lubricant you choose to use. Thanks again!

Good to know about possible future troubles when soldering the clamped area of the wire. Didn't know that (and I never ran into that kind of a problem). Yeah, using WD40 is kind of a dirty hack as the oil could later brittle the rubber jacketing. I sprayed it on and wiped most of it off immediately. The rest dissipated quite fast - I guess it interacted with the rubber, but the surface looked ok upon a closer look.

Oh, and the yellow end part where you pull the wire through first - I think it is meant to stay inside the end part for better protection and not to be turned to the outside. Maybe that is the reason why the manual says push and turn at the same time.